Gem News International Gems & Gemology, Spring 2024, Vol. 60, No. 1

Tucson 2024 Overview


Figure 1. A display case showing popular colors and materials seen this year in Tucson. Photo by Jennifer Stone-Sundberg; courtesy of Arizona Color Stones & Minerals.
Figure 1. A display case showing popular colors and materials seen this year in Tucson. Photo by Jennifer Stone-Sundberg; courtesy of Arizona Color Stones & Minerals.

Overall, 2024 was a good year at the various Tucson shows. Foot traffic throughout the venues was noticeably slow at times, but less window-shopping and more serious buying of particularly higher-end items made up for the lack of bustling crowds. Most vendors interviewed reported strong sales and many returning buyers, noting that sales have continued to grow post-pandemic. 

The American Gem Trade Association reported a small uptick in buyer attendance (+1%) and a 3% growth in vendors at the AGTA GemFair. In fact, they only had one empty booth in both the designer showroom and the gem hall. Vendors in both venues indicated that the show floor felt slower but that visitors were there to buy, often with shopping lists. AGTA’s added security measures that included ID checks were well received by both buyers and exhibitors.

GIA’s Show Service Laboratory reported a solid AGTA show, with ruby, emerald, and sapphire making up the majority of the intake. Both the service lab and vendors noted movement of high-end, unusual, and rare stones, a common theme every year in Tucson.

Figure 2. Vintage turquoise rough from the Sleeping Beauty mine in Arizona. Photo by Jennifer Stone-Sundberg; courtesy of Arizona Color Stones & Minerals.
Figure 2. Vintage turquoise rough from the Sleeping Beauty mine in Arizona. Photo by Jennifer Stone-Sundberg; courtesy of Arizona Color Stones & Minerals.
Figure 3. A 30.26 ct blue cushion-cut cuprian tourmaline from Mozambique. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Evan Caplan.
Figure 3. A 30.26 ct blue cushion-cut cuprian tourmaline from Mozambique. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Evan Caplan.
Figure 4. A 5.34 ct vivid green modified cushion-cut Russian demantoid garnet displaying horsetail inclusions. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Tsarina Jewels.
Figure 4. A 5.34 ct vivid green modified cushion-cut Russian demantoid garnet displaying horsetail inclusions. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Tsarina Jewels.
Figure 5. Pink and purple “Nebula” sapphire in both freeform faceted tablet (left; 7.77 × 9.20 mm, 0.82 ct) and brilliant-cut (right; 4 mm round, 0.73 ct) styles. This material is from a mine in Madagascar that produces very small stones ranging from hot pink to violet. Photos by Kalim Korey; courtesy of Caroline C.
Figure 5. Pink and purple “Nebula” sapphire in both freeform faceted tablet (left; 7.77 × 9.20 mm, 0.82 ct) and brilliant-cut (right; 4 mm round, 0.73 ct) styles. This material is from a mine in Madagascar that produces very small stones ranging from hot pink to violet. Photos by Kalim Korey; courtesy of Caroline C.

It was hard to miss the prevalence of green to blue stones, especially in vibrant and pastel tones. They were well represented in the 2023 AGTA Spectrum and Cutting Edge Awards, and many vendors reportedly brought these colors to Tucson in response. With blues and greens leading the way, pinks and to a lesser extent purples were also highly visible (figure 1). Among the top stones spotted throughout the shows were emerald, turquoise (figure 2), opal, aquamarine, Paraíba and cuprian tourmaline (figure 3), green garnet (figure 4), and unheated Montana sapphire. Strong showings of unheated blue Ukrainian topaz, unheated bicolor green and blue zoisite, blue zircon, pink to purple garnets, electric pink and purple sapphire (figure 5), morganite, fluorescent “dragon” Malaya garnet, rose quartz, pink tourmaline, baroque pearls, and Oregon sunstone were also noted.

Figure 6. Sapphire and spinel with a visible silky haze creating a glowing, sleepy appearance were popular throughout the shows. Left: Four emerald-cut Mahenge spinel (clockwise from top: 3.00 ct purple, 1.77 ct purple, 2.40 ct purple, and 3.71 ct hot pink). Courtesy of Bryan Lichtenstein. Right: A 4.50 ct “opalescent” unheated sapphire from Sri Lanka. Courtesy of Misfit Diamonds. Photos by Robert Weldon.
Figure 6. Sapphire and spinel with a visible silky haze creating a glowing, sleepy appearance were popular throughout the shows. Left: Four emerald-cut Mahenge spinel (clockwise from top: 3.00 ct purple, 1.77 ct purple, 2.40 ct purple, and 3.71 ct hot pink). Courtesy of Bryan Lichtenstein. Right: A 4.50 ct “opalescent” unheated sapphire from Sri Lanka. Courtesy of Misfit Diamonds. Photos by Robert Weldon.

Another trend was the demand for visibly unheated stones. “Silky” sapphire and spinel with needle inclusions creating a soft, glowing appearance were extremely popular (figure 6). Also referred to as “opalescent,” “hazy,” “milky,” and “sleepy,” these stones were some of the hottest at the AGTA, Gem & Jewelry Exchange (GJX), and Pueblo shows. Dudley Blauwet Gems reported selling out of all of their opalescent milky stones by the fourth day of AGTA. 

Figure 7. A 0.67 ct heart-shaped pezzottaite measuring 5.61 × 6.10 mm. The rough of this rare newer gem material was found and bought in Madagascar in December 2023. The stone was cut in New York for the Tucson show, where it sold. Photo by Kalim Corey; courtesy of Caroline C.
Figure 7. A 0.67 ct heart-shaped pezzottaite measuring 5.61 × 6.10 mm. The rough of this rare newer gem material was found and bought in Madagascar in December 2023. The stone was cut in New York for the Tucson show, where it sold. Photo by Kalim Corey; courtesy of Caroline C.

Other noted trends included the importance of geographic origin and traceability reporting for many buyers, the popularity of fancy shapes such as hearts and pears (figure 7), and the use of white metal in jewelry both in the AGTA Spectrum Award winners and throughout the shows. 

Figure 8. Two pairs of earrings designed and crafted by Caroline Chartouni using Sleeping Beauty turquoise rough she acquired more than 10 years ago. The left pair is 18K white gold with 64.53 carats of turquoise, two cabochon moonstones, and 4.40 carats of hot pink spinel. The right pair is 18K white gold with 107.30 carats of turquoise, 4.64 carats of tsavorite garnet, and 0.19 carats of diamond. Photos by Kalim Corey; courtesy of Caroline C.
Figure 8. Two pairs of earrings designed and crafted by Caroline Chartouni using Sleeping Beauty turquoise rough she acquired more than 10 years ago. The left pair is 18K white gold with 64.53 carats of turquoise, two cabochon moonstones, and 4.40 carats of hot pink spinel. The right pair is 18K white gold with 107.30 carats of turquoise, 4.64 carats of tsavorite garnet, and 0.19 carats of diamond. Photos by Kalim Corey; courtesy of Caroline C.
Figure 9. Vintage Navajo silver bolo tie with turquoise reportedly from the Morenci mine in southeastern Arizona, which is not currently being mined for turquoise. This highly collectible material, known for its desirable blue color and iron pyrite matrix, dates back to 1864 and was a byproduct of copper mining. Photo by Kevin Schumacher; courtesy of Aaron Palke.
Figure 9. Vintage Navajo silver bolo tie with turquoise reportedly from the Morenci mine in southeastern Arizona, which is not currently being mined for turquoise. This highly collectible material, known for its desirable blue color and iron pyrite matrix, dates back to 1864 and was a byproduct of copper mining. Photo by Kevin Schumacher; courtesy of Aaron Palke.

Demand for American stones was evident once again, with more vendors carrying sapphire from Montana, turquoise from Nevada and Arizona, and sunstone from Oregon. In fact, one of the most often encountered materials in jewelry this year was vintage turquoise reportedly from the famed Sleeping Beauty mine in Arizona (figure 8). In the past, these various American gems were available mainly from vendors directly associated with the mining claims. The Southwestern motif, always a fixture in Tucson, was decidedly more pronounced this year, with many large silver items throughout the shows, including bangles, cuff bracelets, statement earrings, necklaces, and bolo ties adorned with turquoise (figure 9), red coral, blue topaz, and opal. This observation was validated the following week when singer Post Malone performed “America the Beautiful” before Super Bowl LVIII wearing a striking silver bolo tie complete with a large bright green turquoise stone with brown matrix. The bolo was reportedly made by Navajo artist Leonard Nez of New Mexico using a piece of Royston turquoise.

In addition to the presence of vintage jewelry this year, we also found multiple examples of repurposing antiquities into jewelry. As for new finds, we report on bright blue opal from Chile, green amber from Ethiopia, high-quality orange-flash rainbow moonstone from Madagascar, and recent sapphire production from the famed Kashmir region.

We hope you enjoy our coverage of the 2024 Tucson gem shows and find the following reports informative.

Jennifer Stone-Sundberg is senior technical editor, and Tao Hsu is technical editor, for Gems & Gemology at GIA in Carlsbad, California. Eric Fritz is a technical advisor to GIA in Tucson, Arizona. Lisa Kennedy and Cristiano Brigida are subject specialists at GIA in New York.