Gem News International Gems & Gemology, Spring 2024, Vol. 60, No. 1

New Sapphire Material from Kashmir


Figure 1. Left: Two Kashmir sapphire rough crystals: 77.00 ct unheated (left) and 25.20 ct heated (right). Right: Unheated Kashmir sapphires. Left to right: 1.29 ct pear shape, 2.60 ct cushion cut, 21.09 ct dragon carving, and 4.08 ct oval cut. Photos by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Eddie Cleveland of KashmirBlue and Jeffery Bergman of EighthDimensionGems.
Figure 1. Left: Two Kashmir sapphire rough crystals: 77.00 ct unheated (left) and 25.20 ct heated (right). Right: Unheated Kashmir sapphires. Left to right: 1.29 ct pear shape, 2.60 ct cushion cut, 21.09 ct dragon carving, and 4.08 ct oval cut. Photos by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Eddie Cleveland of KashmirBlue and Jeffery Bergman of EighthDimensionGems.

The legendary and remote sapphire mines of Kashmir, the disputed Himalayan territory between India and Pakistan, produced the finest-quality sapphires from 1890 through the 1920s. These coveted gems made their way south to Mumbai and eventually to Europe and America. Now, 100 years later, rough stones are still found, deposited through erosive processes. During the summer months, Kashmiri shepherds migrate north through the higher Himalayas, where they occasionally find sapphires in the riverbeds and on the hillsides. The glacier-tumbled rough typically exhibits rounded surfaces, affectionately referred to as “plums in pudding” by English geologist C.S. Middle in the 1930s (figure 1, left). Many in the trade believe the best available material dates back to five productive years in the 1880s.

Figure 2. Two untreated Kashmir sapphire rings. Top: 1.59 ct cushion-cut cornflower blue sapphire set in white gold with VVS baguette diamonds. Bottom: 1.00 ct oval-cut medium lighter blue sapphire set in an Art Deco style diamond platinum ring. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Eddie Cleveland of KashmirBlue and Jeffery Bergman of EighthDimensionGems.
Figure 2. Two untreated Kashmir sapphire rings. Top: 1.59 ct cushion-cut cornflower blue sapphire set in white gold with VVS baguette diamonds. Bottom: 1.00 ct oval-cut medium lighter blue sapphire set in an Art Deco style diamond platinum ring. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Eddie Cleveland of KashmirBlue and Jeffery Bergman of EighthDimensionGems.

Exhibited at the AGTA show by Jeffery Bergman (EighthDimensionGems, Bangkok) and Mayer & Watt (Maysville, Kentucky), this selection of newly found rough crystals, loose cut gems (figure 1, right), and mounted Kashmir sapphires (figure 2) was all recently faceted by lapidary artisan Eddie Cleveland of KashmirBlue, who lived in Kashmir researching the historic mines for more than a decade. Cleveland uses his heat-treating experience to turn much of the pale grayish geuda-like rough to rich, well-saturated blues through standard high-temperature heating techniques. A limited amount of new material is found each year, and only a few pieces find their way to market.

Eric Fritz is a technical advisor to GIA in Tucson, Arizona.