Nigerian Gems and Jewelry
During the JCK show in Tucson, GIA had the opportunity to meet up with Amina Egwuatu, founder of Mina Stones. Mrs. Egwuatu, a GIA Graduate Gemologist from Abuja, Nigeria, started the company with the aim of promoting African culture through gems and jewelry. Mina Stones sources, cuts, designs, and manufactures everything in their workshops to keep as much value as possible in Africa. Mrs. Egwuatu works directly with the miners and has visited many of the sites where her stones are produced. This allows traceability throughout the entire supply chain. Mina Stones helped to establish the AGJES Sparkle Foundation, which supports miners through education about their stones, helps them with administration, and provides tools. By working this way, Mina Stones improves the conditions of its miners and suppliers.
Nigeria is known for tourmalines that possess a wide range of colors, rubellite being the most famous. A more recent rubellite discovery near Calabar, Cross River State, has produced higher volumes (though slightly lower quality) than the original find in Oyo State, which has not produced for a long time.
Apart from the red variety, this gem is also found in green, pink, and various combinations of these colors. About 20 years ago, there was even a discovery of cuprian tourmaline in western Nigeria that produced some fine material for a short period. According to various sources, a new pocket was discovered in early 2020 that made this material available in the market.
Another common stone from Nigeria is beryl. Various regions in the country produce fine aquamarine, morganite, heliodor, and green beryl (figure 1). While there are many emerald deposits known throughout the country, facet-grade material is limited to an area in Nasarawa State.
Sapphires are found throughout the eastern and central parts of Nigeria. In several areas such as Antang, Bauchi, Kaduna, and Gombe, the production is exclusively from artisanal miners. The better-known Mambilla Plateau has a few larger operations, but small-scale mining is prevalent.
Nigerian sapphires are typically dark blue, although goods found in the southeastern part of the country tend to be lighter in color. Parti-colored, yellow, purplish, and green sapphires are also common.
Mina Stones’ jewelry is inspired by Nigerian traditions. The country has long been known for its blacksmiths and goldsmiths, resulting in a strong jewelry culture. Mina Stones is trying to revive the skills, patterns, and heritage by making use of traditional alphabets and symbols. One example is a necklace featuring the Arewa knot (figure 2), a symbol that represents the unity of the different people in northern Nigeria.
Another collection draws inspiration from the city of Ife, in southwestern Nigeria. According to local beliefs, the city was found by a supreme deity and served as the seat for a long line of dynasties.
Mina Stones aims to represent Nigerian gems and jewelry. The country is an important supplier of many colored gemstones that have remained largely unknown to the general public.
