Lab Notes Gems & Gemology, Fall 2016, Vol. 52, No. 3

Treated Red and Green HPHT Synthetic Diamonds


Fancy red and Fancy Vivid yellowish green color-treated synthetic diamonds
Figure 1. These two treated synthetic diamonds, a 0.57 ct Fancy red and a 0.50 ct Fancy Vivid yellowish green, show strikingly vibrant colors rarely found in natural-color diamonds. Photo by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao. 

Natural-color red and green diamonds are extremely rare and command some of the highest prices in the market. Only a small number of natural diamonds have ever been graded as Fancy red without any modifying hues such as brownish red or orangy red. A 0.57 ct round brilliant with Fancy red color (figure 1, left) was recently submitted to GIA’s New York laboratory for a colored diamond grading report. It showed a heavily saturated and pure red color, without any modifications to the red hue. From another client, we received a 0.50 ct round brilliant graded as Fancy Vivid yellowish green (figure 1, right) for a synthetic colored diamond grading report. The striking features shared by these two specimens caught our attention.

Examination with a standard gemological microscope revealed that both of them contained pinpoint clouds and metallic inclusions (figure 2), a typical feature of synthetic diamonds grown by high pressure and high temperature (HPHT). Mid-FTIR absorption spectra identified both as type Ib, with the relatively high concentration of isolated nitrogen that is responsible for the yellow to brown color typically observed in HPHT synthetics (Winter 2015 Lab Notes, pp. 430–431).

Large metallic inclusion in Fancy Red HPHT synthetic diamond
Figure 2. A large metallic inclusion breaks the table of the Fancy red synthetic diamond. This inclusion and the tiny pinpoint clouds in the background are typical identification features of HPHT synthetics. Photomicrograph by Yixin (Jessie) Zhou; field of view 2.85 mm.

The strong short-wave UV radiation of the DiamondView (figure 3) showed red and yellowish green fluorescence in the red and green samples, respectively. Furthermore, the presence of both cubic {100} and octahedral {111} growth sectors in the DiamondView images suggested that the specimens formed with a relatively high growth rate that facilitated cubic and octahedral development simultaneously, a strong indicator of synthetic origin (Winter 2015 Lab Notes, pp. 429–430).

DiamondView images of Fancy red and Fancy Vivid yellowish green synthetic diamonds
Figure 3. DiamondView fluorescence images of the Fancy Vivid yellowish green synthetic diamond (left) and the Fancy red synthetic diamond (center and right) show similar combinations of cubic and octahedral sectors. Images by Yixin (Jessie) Zhou. 

Diffused lighting showed uneven color zoning in both samples, consisting of their bodycolors and the yellow color from the isolated nitrogen content (figure 4). Spectroscopic analysis revealed that the Fancy red synthetic had an unusually strong peak at 637 nm (NV center). This peak indicates color alteration by post-growth annealing (T.W. Overton and J.E. Shigley, “A history of diamond treatments,” Spring 2008 G&G, pp. 33–55). In the Fancy Vivid yellowish green synthetic, a concentration of green color on the culet area indicates that artificial irradiation was applied to alter the as-grown yellow color to vivid green. Both synthetic diamonds underwent post-growth treatment to change their color to the desirable red and yellowish green hues. While the yellowish green round brilliant received a synthetic colored diamond report, the undisclosed nature of the Fancy red’s growth required the lab to issue an identification report to properly disclose its synthetic origin.

Color zoning in Fancy red and Fancy Vivid yellowish green synthetic diamonds
Figure 4. Under polarized light, the Fancy Vivid yellowish green synthetic diamond (left) displays patchy yellow color zoning caused by isolated nitrogen and a green color concentration on the culet caused by post-growth artificial irradiation treatment. The Fancy red sample (right) shows yellow to near-colorless zones following the cubic growth sectors, with the red color caused by post-growth annealing. Photomicrographs by Yixin (Jessie) Zhou; fields of view 7.19 mm (left) and 4.79 mm (right). 

Yixin (Jessie) Zhou is a staff gemologist, and Paul Johnson is a supervisor of diamond advanced testing, at GIA’s New York laboratory.