This review appeared in the Summer 2004 issue of Gems & Gemology.

Secrets of the Gem Trade: The Connoisseur’s Guide to Precious Gemstones
By Richard W. Wise, 274 pp., illus., publ. by Brunswick House Press, Lenox, MA, 2003. US$79.95*

Capturing the essence of what it takes to be a gem trader in today’s world of ubiquitous gem treatments, synthetics, and new sources is a formidable task. Richard Wise has “lifted the veil” to uncover many aspects of gem trading, while holding back just enough to leave the reader yearning for more. Mr. Wise’s enthusiasm for gemology, extensive travel to gem localities, and numerous publications have given him the expertise to share and explain many secrets of this venerable profession.

Part I (Chapters 1–7) introduces various elements of becoming a gem connoisseur, while Part II (Chapters 8–43) provides an overview of commonly traded gems. Each of the gems covered in Part II is given a brief history and introduction followed by detailed information on color, clarity, and cut, as well as a special section on the gem’s rarity factor. When applicable, “crystal” (the author’s preferred term for transparency), texture, and even heat-enhancement information is included.

The first chapter offers a historical look at the instinctual human attraction to gems for adornment, as religious and status symbols, and for their medicinal and talismanic properties. This perspective creates a logical basis for understanding the reverence for gems that persists today. Mr. Wise shows how gem connoisseurs can combine modern scientific knowledge with historical facts and lore. He discounts today’s irreverent use of the term semiprecious by suggesting that the real connoisseur should focus on beauty and rarity. Also, the factors of supply and demand vs. apparent and actual rarity are clearly explained and supported with well-chosen examples.

In a chapter titled “Rethinking the Four C’s,” the author introduces his view that the fourth C (carat weight) should be replaced with “crystal.” Though Mr. Wise makes a valid point, he provides no clear parameters for how this term could be applied to various degrees of “crystal quality.” It would seem to be more useful as a subcategory of clarity and transparency.

Mr. Wise does, however, do an exceptional job of addressing cut, clarity, and color. He explains the evolution of cutting styles and how modern gemological research has established that there can be more than one “ideal” cut. By clearly defining the color language terms of hue, tone, and saturation, Mr. Wise successfully communicates how these terms, along with their modifiers, can be applied to describe subtle differences in colored gems. In Chapter 4, he presents a clear explanation of color science and the need for proper viewing conditions. Throughout the book, Mr. Wise provides his ideal hue, tone, and saturation percentages for each of the gems featured. This information can be extremely useful when communicating the quality of a particular gem variety.

In Chapter 5, Mr. Wise focuses on the unique grading skills required for judging phenomenal stones, fancy-color diamonds, and pearls. The next chapter briefly covers gem enhancements, while Chapter 7 focuses on new sources from Africa, Brazil, North America, and Australia.

The detailed information in Part II is provided for gems ranging from alexandrite to tanzanite to spinel. Beryl, garnet, pearls, and corundum are particularly well covered. Though a well-deserved tribute because of its historical significance and recent popularity, the agate chapter, placed after alexandrite and amethyst, seems out of place. Later, Mr. Wise skillfully recreates the feeling of actually being present when a pearl farmer inserts the nucleus into a mollusk or when a miner’s efforts are rewarded with a colorful gem crystal. This entire section is filled with fascinating anecdotes and additional information on the relative value of gems based on quality, size, color, clarity, and rarity.

The excellent choice and placement of photos is a visual delight, although I was disappointed that carat weight was not included for many of the images. Also, there are some typos and misspellings, such as “Moguk” throughout the chapter on ruby. However, footnotes at the bottom of almost every page provide additional pertinent information for those interested in learning more.

I highly recommend this book to students wishing to supplement their gemological studies with practical gem value and trade knowledge. Collectors and other gem enthusiasts will find many helpful bits of information to assist in their gem purchases while navigating the path to becoming a true gem connoisseur.

EDWARD BOEHM
JOEB Enterprises
Solana Beach, California