Reviews Gems & Gemology, Fall 2016, Vol. 52, No. 3

Book Review: Exotic Gems, Volume 4: How to Identify, Evaluate & Select Jade & Abalone Pearls


Exotic Gems, Volume 4 book cover
By Renée Newman, softcover, 136 pp., publ. by International Jewelry Publications, Los Angeles, 2016, $19.95.

Exotic Gems, Volume 4 is the latest book in a series focusing on jadeite, with a bonus section on abalone pearls. This volume is geared for the consumer and the professional, but is accessible to jewelers, sales associates, gem dealers, collectors, gemology students, and appraisers. Its 136 pages are visually rich, with 338 color photos, diagrams, and tables. Author Renée Newman has packed the book with information about jadeite’s historical significance, countries of origin, and defining characteristics.

Jadeite is inherently inscrutable. There are so many factors to be considered—color, luster, transparency, to name a few—along with confusion over its counterpart nephrite and the many jade imitations on the market. The two large charts in the "Imitation or Real Jade?" chapter help the reader to discern jadeite’s unique characteristics, such as refractive index reading, specific gravity, and hardness. The charts help to separate the simulants from jadeite and nephrite. The chapter ends with visual clues: closed-back settings, warm surface, and a low sales price are among the many hints.

The "Treated or Untreated" chapter indicates the instruments in a gemologist's arsenal can be used to identify treatments, such as the Chelsea filter, and what the results express about the integrity of the material. Ms. Newman further delves into advanced detection tools are found in gemological laboratories, including various spectrometers, thereby making the laboratory reports more comprehensive.

Jadeite is traditionally sold by the piece, rather than by carat weight, and the chapter on price factors discusses at length the three quality factors that have the most impact on jadeite values: transparency/translucency, treatment, and color saturation and tone. The next five chapters explore jade sources and its impact on world cultures such as China, Myanmar (Burma), Guatemala, Canada, and the United States. Minor sources of jadeite such as Russia, New Zealand, and Taiwan are covered briefly, with a review of the region’s history mining or cultural uses of jade. Color photos give great examples of jadeite from these areas.

The last chapter concentrates on abalone pearls, an increasingly respected colorful pearl product. Sourcing, pricing factors, gemological characteristics, and general appreciation for the material are explained with Renee Newman's typical thoroughness.

For the consumer, there are sections on historical significance, therapeutic powers and, of course, advice on caring for jadeite, nephrite, and abalone pearl. For the professional, The book helps professionals navigate the complexities of "exotic" jadeite through increased awareness of a commonly imitated, treated, enhanced, and faked gemstone.

Gail Brett Levine, an independent appraiser, is the Executive Director of the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers.